The traditional lobster supper.

If you're a Maritimer, there are only two ways to dine on lobster.

Method #1: Take several live lobsters home from the market or wharf and boil them. While they're cooking, remove everything from the kitchen table, cover it with last week's newspapers, set out a large container for discarded shells, and provide utensils such as shears, picks and crackers at each place.

Of course, casual attire and a towel (tied on as a bib) comprise the haute couture that eating a lobster demands. A roll of paper towels should be kept handy for cleaning up fingers, lips, spills, and drips.

With the lobsters cooked and draining in the sink, the butter melted and poured into individual ramekins, and the plates ready to receive a bright red crustacean, the best part of a down-home lobster feed gets under way. Conversation ceases, replaced by moans of pleasure as everyone gets down to business.

That's one way to do it-and provided you have a cook who knows  how long it takes to cook a lobster, it might be the best way.

Method #2: If it's summer, head to one of the famous lobster suppers in Prince Edward Island that have been attracting hundreds of thousands of shellfish connoisseurs for decades.

While there are at least half a dozen locales for these lobster suppers, the oldest (and many say the best) is in the little community of New Glasgow, situated on the picturesque River Clyde. These suppers started in June, 1958, as a church-sponsored fundraiser, and soon became a business that caters to more than 1,000 customers daily from June to October.

This is not your typical church supper, where you're seated at a long table with strangers. Tables are separate and can be made to accommodate your numbers. Here, the food is so good and so plentiful that you may wonder why you ever settled for lobster alone. Although lobster is king (or queen, if you prefer a left-handed female), you can eat your fill of appetizers, including seafood chowder, steamed cultivated mussels and a garden salad. With that in mind, beware of over-indulging on appetizers. Often there isn't room for the all-included-in-the-price homemade pies, cakes, and other desserts.

Another favourite venue is the St. Ann's Church lobster supper in Hope River, where lobster is only one of nine entrée choices, following chowder, steamed mussels and salad, and preceding a homemade dessert (which, in season, might include strawberry shortcake.)  Established in 1964, this supper was launched as a weekly event to help pay the mortgage on the new church. Today, it continues this support by operating six days a week.

Fisherman's Wharf Lobster Suppers, in Rustico, with its seating for 500, also provides all-you-can-eat seafood chowder, mussels, and freshly baked rolls and biscuits. The 60-foot salad bar is claimed to be the Island's longest.

It's safe to say that almost any of Prince Edward Island's fine dining establishments (and there are many) will cook a lobster for its customers, but let's just say that the whole tomalley will be found at these world famous lobster suppers-at which Prince Edward Island excels.

And remember, if you're eating a one-pounder, it took about seven years for the crustacean to grow to that size, so savour every bite. 

Bring Your Appetite: A Sampling of Island Suppers

Lobster on the Wharf
Charlottetown
Lobster on the Wharf has operated at the edge of the Charlottetown Harbour (2 Prince St.) ?since 1964. The business evolved from a lobster pound. Opens May 1.
(902) 368-2888 or lobsteronthewharf.com.

Centre Expo-Festival Centre Ltd.
Abrams Village
On Route 124, in the heart of the Acadian Evangeline Region. Suppers include Acadian seafood chowder, Island mussels. June 15 to September 15.
(902) 854-3300.

Cardigan Lobster Suppers & Jocks Lounge
Cardigan
Five-course, fresh market lobster supper and full family menu. Open early June to October. (902) 583-2020.

St. Ann's Lobster Suppers
Hope River
Five kilometres from Stanley Bridge off Route 224. Five-course meal includes three appetizers, entrée and homemade dessert. Open mid-June to late September.
(902) 621-0635 or lobstersuppers.com.

New Glasgow Lobster Suppers
New Glasgow
#604 Route 258. All meals include unlimited rolls, seafood chowder, cultivated mussels, salad, desserts and beverages. Seating for 500. Open May 29 to October 8.
(902) 964-2870 or peilobstersuppers.com. 

Fisherman's Wharf Lobster Suppers
Rustico
Route 6. All-you-can-eat mussels, homemade chowder, rolls, salad bar, soft ice cream, pastries, desserts. Seats 500. Open May 15 to October 15.
(902) 963-2669 or fishermanswharf.ca.